Gestational Stays

By Mary Johns  IMG_2834

These stays have been hanging around in the project bin, almost finished, for….4 years. I started for Krystle when she was pregnant with her oldest (who is 4) and they didn’t get done in time, then I thought I would finish them when I was pregnant with my 2nd (who is 3 1/2), and still they sat. Then I thought I would finish them for Mallory, whose daughter is now 2 1/2. Now Mallory is pregnant with baby number 2, so it was time for them to get done! Krystle is a little tiny thing, so these were a touch small for Mallory (and everyone, once I thought about it), but I decided it was time for them to be finished. They are from Past Patterns #705.  http://www.pastpatterns.com/705.html

IMG_2836 IMG_2837IMG_2838.IMG_2835

I have read reviews that said they were so comfortable and supportive of the heavy belly that they wanted to wear them all the time, so I decided to make Mallory’s new ones cute enough to wear on the outside if she wanted to! Here is the inside…

IMG_2843 - Copy IMG_2842 - Copy

I changed the construction slightly for this pair, so there wouldn’t be so many rows of stitching showing. I set the gussets into the front side only, then stitched the lining down to the gussets by hand. The first pair I sandwiched the gussets in between the layers and then stitched, but I didn’t catch it all the first time, and had to add extra stitching. I was a good girl and stitched the binding on by hand on the inside. The outside is stitched by machine, but doing the inside by hand makes it look cleaner.

IMG_2844 IMG_2847 - Copy

The have gussets for the bust and the hips, then they lace to allow adjustment for the growing belly.

IMG_2846 - Copy IMG_2848

They bust gussets open so that they can also be used for nursing. The strap was supposed to have its own button, but the nursing gusset button was in the same spot, so I just doubled up the use of that button!

IMG_2853 IMG_2851 IMG_2849

Mallory has been doing seating for the Sleepy Hollow dinners which means running around for 2 hours in costume, so I was really pleased to get these done at least in time for her to wear them for the last weekend of dinners. We already made her some petticoats balanced for the belly, and after the baby she can turn them around and wear them with a rump;) I will try and get picture of Mallory tomorrow in the stays and the whole outfit.

Aprons!

By Mary Johns IMG_2412  IMG_2413

We have been woefully behind the times in the barn area when it comes to aprons, and this week we have decided to remedy that. We had a huge Old Joe tour yesterday (even Abi and I were on tour, which only happens in emergencies these days, if that tells you anything;), and we have pretty much run out of all costumes for that era (1880’s). So…since we didn’t have time to make everyone a new costume, we decided a good way to up the visual authenticity of the costumes was to add good aprons! We have some, but seeing as its fall, and we have about 12 girls on BBQ line on Saturdays, we didn’t have any decent ones in stock. I’ve made a few really good ones recently for a project (Calico Ghost Town, Lane House and Museum), so I pulled out my notes and what not, and we got to work. Here are some details of the above apron, which was for the project.

 IMG_2382  IMG_2383

I was getting antsy, wanting to do more research, but at Abi said, “We don’t have time, get it done!”, which was very true. So here is what we were able to pull off in about 2 days.

1889 Kitchen Apron

IMG_2820   IMG_2819

This one is the same as the one above, minus the bottom ruffle. I used almost every square inch of the fabric I had, and this apron was not destined to have a ruffle. I tried to make it more adjustable by just adding ties to the back instead of doing the belt that goes around to the front. I would be fine if we were making it for a specific person, but right now they need to fit many people. I don’t like the way it is more bunchy at the waist, and am wondering if its due to the fabric. The first one was out of a nice cotton shirting, and this one was out of homespun.

1868 Apron

IMG_2818  IMG_2817IMG_2815

This one is a little early, 1868, but it had some of the same elements of one from 1878, so I went ahead and tried it out. It definitely needs some work for me to really like it. The earlier skirts are needed to help hold it out right, the back of it keep falling below Sarah’s skirts when she wore it. The bib is pinned, and I like the pockets.

1878 Apron

IMG_2821  IMG_2823

This is the one from 1878. As you can see it has the pin up bib, with darts (which I love!), and it wraps around and buttons in the back, same as the one from 1868. This one needs a few adjustments, and it will be wearable. It needs a little more fullness for it to fit well. It gets some weird gapes on the back were it wraps around. I think if we add another panel to the skirts, or add some width to the existing panels, it will eliminate the problem. This one was made by Abi (glitches not her fault, using an original pattern!).

  IMG_1847

 IMG_1848  IMG_1849

IMG_1850

Here is the same one again, but from the earlier project. I just noticed that Abi didn’t put a ruffle on the bottom, or lace around the bib. It was a working apron, and this one is more of a dress apron, but we may need to add some ruffles;) This one is out of fine white linen, with covered buttons from a cotton embroidered piece, the ruffle has an eyelet band on the bottom, and the eyelet is on the bib also.

1878 Apron

IMG_2825

This one is from 1878. I looked at a drawing and made a pattern…I really like this one! I will admit, I made this one today, after the mad rush of costuming yesterdays tour. The waistband is very simple, and just buttons in the back, to size. It was for Lizzy, our kitchen manager at the barn, so I knew what size to make it. The bib pins on this one too. We have two of these in dark brown linen, but I think we will add pockets to them for a finishing touch.

Indicative of the era Apron

IMG_2824

I like this one, it is one I designed using period elements for our BBQ line girls, but we always use white for them. This one is a tiny tan and white check. The waistband folds over on the sides and the straps are long, they crossover in the back, then feed through the little waistband casings and tie at the waist. I thought I was so original and then I read something somewhere (oh I wish I had the fabulous quote to insert here!) that talked about this very thing being done! But hey, at least I was thinking along the right lines! I did it this way so that the straps are adjustable for many sizes, and the waist is too. We do make bibs in several sizes, and the waist bands are not all the same size either, so if we get close to someones size they look pretty fitted. The only thing I really want to add is pockets. This one was made by Abi.

1909 Servants Apron, for 16 or 17 year old girl

1909 apron front  1909 back 1909 closeup  1909 back closeup

This apron was made a while ago, but I’m on a roll….;) And I used the bib to make for the next apron….

Mix-mash of many apron styles from the years 1880-1909

IMG_2808  IMG_2809IMG_2811  IMG_2814

This one is a bit of a conglomeration…I took everything I loved from all the aprons I’ve made recently and put them together, and I must say I really like the way it turned out! I used the pockets and the ruffle from the 1889 apron, and the bib from the 1909, and the rest is from the one I made up with the straps feeding through the little casing on the ends of the waistband.

I was going to do more apron research tonight, but this post took longer then expected! I have a feeling that the barn aprons are well on their way to a nice accurate mix of styles that will fit in nicely!

Anne

By Mary Johns     IMG_2772

Anne is our local gossip, who haunts the Hawks Head Tavern on Saturdays. We have been working on her outfit a little bit each week for the last 6 weeks or so. She started out in a white figured gown, but it didn’t fit her quite right. I finally did a fitting on her, and made the gown. Then we added a new petticoat, and a new handkerchief, and a new apron…we are still working on decorating the gown, but it is almost done. I have added the cuffs since these pictures were taken, and we are adding one single white flounce to each sleeve. The fabric is from http://www.reproductionfabrics.com , and I think its supposed to be pansies, but Anne liked it better upside down, because it looked like bees that way! Here is the gown under construction…the bodice was completed and hemmed all around before the skirts were added on. I stitched them on from the outside. It’s lined with a brown and black cross-barred cotton, left over from a Civil war dress.

IMG_2752

IMG_2754

IMG_2756

I always forget to check for the graffiti on the table before I take pictures! This table has been in the sewing room for about 10 years now, and it was handed down to us from someone else that used it for quite some time, so we look at the marks we or others have made on it as battle scars.

IMG_2775

IMG_2771

I don’t have a very good camera, and I’m not super at photography (working on improving though;), so I apologize for the pictures, but we were excited that we finally got her outfit mostly done while she still has several weeks to wear it, and we didn’t want to wait until someone more gifted with a camera was around to take pictures.

IMG_2776

I think she’s happy with it!

Danielle

By Mary JohnsIMG_2760

Danielle has worked for Riley’s for quite a while now, and she has never had a truly well put together outfit. She is in a management position, and needed a nice 1880’s outfit. We had her come in and pick out her fabric and her design. The corset, bustle and bustle petticoat featured in an earlier post were all for Danielle, and are worn under this outfit. She still needs proper underwear (I’m thinking combinations;), but at least she has all the proper foundation pieces.

IMG_2763

IMG_2761

I think we may need to poof up her bustle just a little bit, so it sticks out a bit more, but I can adjust the ties and that should do it (I hope!).

IMG_2762

The outfit consists of the vested bodice, the skirt and the apron overskirt. Both the fabrics are the same, save for the color. They have a very subtle embroidery all over them. The buttons are mother of pearl, but a nice solid shank button, not a flat button with holes. The bodice is flat lined and bag lined, both linings are sturdy cotton. The skirt is flat lined with sturdy cotton also. The overskirt is not lined at all. The overskirt has casing for drawstrings, and also has tie strings, to adjust the poof and boof.

This outfit was a joy to make for Danielle, who works very hard, and deserved some clothes that make her feel great!